Back to Erbil
Back to Erbil. It’s time to go home. I felt sad to leave this place, I had had such a good time. It was supposed to be a 4-5 hour drive back, but about two hours into the journey, our car broke down. We advanced at a turtle’s speed. Eventually, we stopped at the gas station to wait for another bus to pick us up. There was a market nearby, so I went out to explore it. People at the market were selling all sorts of vegetables. They were very curious about me, fathers were pushing their kids towards me. It is sort of interesting to be treated like a zoo animal everywhere, like a curiosity that parents need to teach their kids about. Of course several people invited me for lunch, they had set up a sofa right next to highway as a pop-up restaurant. Unfortunately I couldn’t stay, because finally (after at least 2 hours wait) our replacement bus had arrived. We were supposed to go to an excavation site that day, but because of all of the delays Jan decided we should just directly go to town. I seemed to be the only one that was disappointed about this. But a few minutes into the drive, Jan received a phone call from someone important saying that we really should go to the excavation side. I was internally cheering as everyone else in the car was complaining. Apparently, I was the only one interested in archaeology.
The drive to the excavation site took at least another hour. When we arrived there, a whole film crew was waiting for us including some politicians. I think a lot of us got tired of the TV by that time, but we didn’t seem to have a choice and had to play along. All of us genuinely enjoyed Kurdistan, but four interviews within just a few days is a bit too much.
We were incredibly lucky that day, a British team was busy working at the site which means that they could provide us with some background information. The site itself was fascinating. They have found human skeletons there that were 50,000 to 80,000 years old. Some of the skeletons were badly injured, but the injuries had time to heal before they died. This means that other members of the community must have taken care of them, which again means that back then people were compassionate and organized into communities. They also found some pollen on top and around the skeletons. This means that people were embellishing the graves in some sort of funeral ceremony. Perhaps a first sign of spirituality among humans! How remarkable! I was hyper alert, taking it all in, and realizing how privileged I was to witness all of this. Going to the excavation site was certainly a highlight.
After the visit, we stopped by at the home of a politician. We weren’t let into the house, but into some sort of pre-house that was clearly designed for guests. It was a strange setup. Kitsch sofas all around the room and plastic tables and seats in the middle of the room. We had to wait for some more time, as the servants prepared our late lunch, but eventually we were served a real feast! What a fantastic way to end this trip!
By the time we left, the sun was setting. All of us were really exhausted and couldn’t wait to get back to town. The guys were fantasizing about their drinks. Kurdistan being a muslim country, it is not all that easy to get drinks. You need to be in the capital, and you need to be in a fancy restaurant. We were all ready to party. We got to town around 8PM which was ridiculously late given that we only had to travel 150Km that day. Harry and Tom went straight to get us a few beers. Brits take their alcoholic rehydration very seriously! We started hanging out in the room and then went to a fancy hotel in Erbil to celebrate some more. We all had a great time. But ending a trip always feels very bittersweet.
It was an incredible journey and adventure and I’m very grateful to have been part of it. I don’t really go on organized trips, but there is no way I would have dared to go to Kurdistan by myself. I’m grateful to Secret Compass for taking me there, they have been nothing but professional and I grew really fond of their two expedition leaders Jan and Phil. Before coming, I knew nothing about Kurdistan other than that it was 40km from ISIL-occupied territory. But Kurdistan ended up being full of surprises. It frankly won me over! What I found were lush green hills and stunningly beautiful scenery, a peaceful, safe and progressive environment, and even more beautiful people. People were so hospitable, warm and welcoming, yet without the hassle of some other middle eastern countries. Not once did anyone bother me. I saw a country that is struggling to find its place and identity, but also a country that is full of promise and remarkably forward-thinking. I would go back anytime. Thank you, Kurdistan, the trip couldn’t have been any better!
To see more pictures of our last day, go here.
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